这是一篇BBC的报道，介绍了辣白菜被翻译成泡菜后，是如何引起中韩之间争议的。为避免误解，文中kimchi翻译为朝鲜辣白菜，而pao
 cai则直接用“泡菜”. 
BBC认为朝鲜辣白菜和中式泡菜有明显区别，之所以引起泡菜之争，主要的锅在于辣白菜在中国也被称为韩国泡菜，被认为是泡菜的一种。BBC认为辣白菜kimchi是朝鲜半岛的，建议中国可以借机在全球推广中式泡菜（Pao
 Cai），大家觉得这个建议如何呢？


How Kimchi Rekindled a Decades’ Long Feud
朝鲜辣白菜是如何重燃数十年纷争的？


When
 it comes to popular pickled condiments, Germans have sauerkraut, 
Indians have achaar and Koreans have kimchi. The fiery fermented food is
 South Korea's national dish, the tradition of making and sharing it is 
listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by Unesco that "reaffirms 
Korean identity", and the dish is an integral part of every meal – so 
much so that when South Korea launched its first astronaut to space in 
2008, it sent kimchi with her.
当谈到流行的腌菜时，德国人有德国酸菜（Sauercraut），印度人有印式腌菜（Achaar），而韩国人则有朝鲜泡菜（Kimchi）。这种辣味发酵食品是韩国“国菜”，制作及分享朝鲜辣白菜的习俗已被联合国教科文组织列为无形文化遗产，也“增强了朝鲜族认同感”。辣白菜几乎是所有韩国菜品里不可缺少的原料，甚至2008年韩国首位女宇航员搭乘别国火箭进入太空时，都要带上辣白菜。


But in recent weeks, South Korea's claim to one of its most popular cultural and culinary exports has come under threat.
但最近几个星期，韩国人声称其最重要的文化及食物出口商品面临威胁。


It
 all started late last month when the Swiss-based International 
Organization for Standardization (ISO) posted new regulations for the 
making of pao cai, a similar pickled vegetable dish from Sichuan, China.
 As BBC News reported, although the ISO listing clearly states "this 
document does not apply to kimchi," China's state-run Global Times 
newspaper quickly pounced on the certification, claiming it as "an 
international standard for the kimchi industry led by China". South 
Korea's agricultural ministry dismissed the Chinese claims, releasing a 
statement saying, "It is inappropriate to report [the pao cai 
certification] without differentiating kimchi from pao cai of China's 
Sichuan."
争端起源于上月底位于瑞士的国际标准化组织（ISO）新发布的制作泡菜的标准，泡菜是一种源于中国四川省的类似的腌渍蔬菜。虽然ISO的文件里明确写着“本文件不适用于朝鲜辣白菜”，但中国环球时报很快大肆宣传“中国主导制定泡菜行业国际标准”。韩国农业部则否认了环球的言论，在一份声明中称：“在报道泡菜标准时，不对朝鲜辣白菜和中国四川泡菜进行区分是不恰当的。” 6park.com

Yet,
 that response didn't go far enough for many Koreans, who leapt to 
social and local media to defend their country's quintessential food and
 call out China for theft. "China is even trying to steal Kimchi from 
Korea," tweeted one user. The Chosun Ilbo, a South Korean newspaper, 
called China's claim "its latest bid for world domination". And in the 
past three weeks, this online "kimchi war" has rekindled a decades-long 
feud between the neighbouring nations that encompasses everything from 
fishing rights in the Yellow Sea to a K-Pop band member's recent 
comments about China's role in the Korean War.
但这份声明并没被太多韩国人看到，他们蜂拥至社交平台和当地媒体上“保卫该国的精髓食物”并称中国偷窃。一名推特用户写道：“中国连朝鲜辣白菜都要从韩国偷走”。而韩国的《朝鲜日报》则称：“中国的宣传是其想主导世界的最新举措”。过去几周以来，网上的“泡菜之争”重新燃起了这两个邻国就黄海地区渔权、韩团成员就朝鲜战争不当言论等一些纷争。


But
 it seems that the battle over who owns kimchi may come down to a simple
 misunderstanding that has gotten lost in translation.
但似乎这起就泡菜/朝鲜辣白菜起源的纷争是一场误会，是因为翻译的问题导致的。


According
 to Dr Sojin Lim, the co-director of the Institute of Korean Studies at 
the University of Central Lancashire, Korean kimchi is often served in 
China under the name pao cai, and – to add further confusion – China has
 its own fermented dish that it also calls pao cai, which is the dish 
that recently won ISO certification.
据中兰开夏大学朝鲜研究院联席主任林博士称，朝鲜辣白菜在中国也通常用泡菜这个名字，而中国自己的腌渍食品也叫泡菜，这进一步导致了混淆，而最近ISO通过的标准是关于中国泡菜的。 6park.com

"Pao
 cai is quite different from kimchi. Kimchi is a fermented cabbage, 
[made with] very different kinds of spicy [and] non-spicy [ingredients].
 But this pao cai is a pickled vegetable, which is something very 
different from kimchi," Lim told BBC Newshour.
 She added: "Pao cai tastes really different, [and is made] really 
different. But for Chinese understanding, kimchi is part of pao cai, so 
that is the starting point of this argument."
林女士称：“泡菜和朝鲜辣白菜有很大区别。朝鲜辣白菜是一种使用了各种不同辣与不辣的原材料调味的发酵大白菜。而泡菜是一种腌渍蔬菜，和朝鲜辣白菜有明显不同。泡菜的口感（与辣白菜）差异很大，但在中国人的观念中，朝鲜辣白菜是泡菜的一种，这也是争端的来源。”


For
 many South Koreans, the very notion that another nation could lay claim
 to its national dish touches a nerve that goes beyond food.
对很多韩国人而言，其它国家可能夺走韩国国菜这一想法触碰了很多人的神经，这不仅仅只和食物有关。


"There
 should be no dispute about the origin of kimchi," said Syuoung Park, 
executive chef at New York's two-Michelin-starred Korean restaurant 
Jungsik. "Kimchi is a traditional Korean dish that originated over 3,000
 years ago. The tradition of making kimchi started as a way to ferment 
and store vegetables during the cold winter when many Koreans died of 
starvation. It is the most ubiquitous side dish on a table every day 
[and] a long-standing cultural heritage of Korea. I hope our culture no 
longer becomes distorted."
纽约一家米其林二星韩国餐馆行政主厨朴某称：“对于朝鲜泡菜的起源应该没有什么争议。朝鲜泡菜是传统朝鲜族食物，起源于3000多年前（小编：3000多年前，哈哈哈哈，我要被韩国人笑死了）。制作泡菜的传统起源于为了过冬而对蔬菜进行发酵储存，当时很多朝鲜人在冬天会饿死。辣白菜是朝鲜半岛长期以来的文化遗产，也是每日最重要的配菜。我希望我们的文化不会被歪曲。”


According
 to Fuchsia Dunlop, author of the book The Food of Sichuan and a Chinese
 culinary expert, "Pao cai literally just means 'vegetables pickled in 
brine'," and while kimchi is layered with ground chillies and fermented 
with seafood, neither of those are present in Sichuanese pao chi. Yet, 
just as many Koreans eat kimchi every day, Dunlop explains that pao cai 
holds an equally strong place in the hearts and stomachs of Sichuanese.
中国食物专家、《四川烹饪》一书的作者扶霞·邓禄普说：“泡菜的字面意思就是‘把菜泡在卤水里’。”
 
而朝鲜辣白菜则是抹上一层碾碎的辣椒后，与海产品一起进行发酵，这些在四川泡菜里都没有出现过。不过，就像很多韩国人每天吃辣白菜一样，邓禄普说泡菜在四川人的舌尖上占据了相同重要的地位。


"It's
 incredibly important. It's an essential part of the Sichuanese 
traditional diet," she said. "Normally with every meal, you'll have a 
little bit of pickles – perhaps radish, cabbage, whatever is in season. 
If you have breakfast in Sichuan, a typical thing to have is a thin rice
 porridge with a steamed bun or bread element, and then pickles. The 
function of the pickles is xiafan, which means "to send the rice down". 
You eat these plain foods, and you need something tasty to send the rice
 down. It's the same thing with an evening meal. It's very much a part 
of Sichuanese everyday life."
她说：“它非常重要。泡菜是四川传统饮食里不可缺少的一部分。基本上一年四季每一餐他们都要吃点泡菜，可能是泡萝卜，也可能是泡包菜。如果你在四川吃早饭的话，典型的搭配就是稀米粥配上馒头或包子，再加上泡菜。泡菜的主要功能就是下饭。当吃味道平淡的主食时，需要有点可口的东西帮助你把米饭咽下去。晚餐也是类似的。这就是四川人日常生活的一部分。” 6park.com

Interestingly,
 just as some Italians believe that "true" Neapolitan pizza is only made
 with San Marzano tomatoes grown on the volcanic plains near Mt 
Vesuvius, Dunlop explained that Sichuanese pao cai aficionados believe 
the pickling brine used to make the condiment should ideally be made 
with salt that comes from the Sichuanese town of Zigong, where it has 
been mined for more than 2,000 years. 
有意思的是，和一些意大利人坚信“正宗的”那不勒斯披萨只能选用生长于维苏威火山附近平原的圣马扎诺番茄一样，邓禄普说一些泡菜爱好者也认为泡菜卤水应使用产自四川自贡的盐，那里产盐有2000多年历史了。


According
 Clarissa Wei, a Taiwan-based journalist who travelled to Sichuan 
earlier this year to profile how local residents prepare pao cai, this 
murky marinade is what really distinguishes the two regional condiments.
台湾省记者魏女士今年曾去四川采访过当地居民是如何准备泡菜的。她认为四川泡菜使用的这种略浑浊的泡菜卤水（和辣白菜）明显不同。


"The
 biggest difference is that Sichuan pickles (pao cai) use a brine of 
salt water and spices, whereas for kimchi, you massage the cabbage with 
salt and pickle it in its natural juices. Whole spices are added in the 
pao cai brine and the vegetable isn't broken up completely during the 
pickling process," Wei said.
“最大的区别在于四川的泡菜使用含盐与辣椒的卤水泡制，而做朝鲜辣白菜需要在大白菜上抹上一层盐，利用其自身的水分进行发酵。泡菜里面放的是整根的辣椒，在发酵过程中蔬菜不会被彻底分解。” 6park.com

"China,
 Korea and Japan have amazing traditions of pickling, as do many other 
countries in the world. Everywhere in the world, people have thought of 
ways to make foods last longer. You have pickling and fermentation 
everywhere. Of course, there are local specialties and variations, but 
it's very much a part of shared human culture. It's absurd for anyone to
 claim they invented pickling!" Dunlop said.
邓禄普说：“中日韩都有自己腌渍泡菜的传统，世界上很多其它国家也一样。全球各地的人们都想尽各种办法来延长食物存储时间，因此腌渍和发酵也随处可见。当然，各地拥有自己的特色和变化，但整体来说这是人类共有的文化。宣称自己发明了腌渍这一工艺是很荒谬的。”


Yet,
 while Unesco, South Koreans and most discerning diners around the world
 would be quick to characterise kimchi as Korean, Dunlop argues that 
China likely won this most recent fermentation feud. By The New York 
Times, The Guardian, Reuters and other international outlets reporting 
on the recent row, countless readers who had never before heard of pao 
cai are now aware of it – a fact that is evident by this Google Trends 
graph showing searches for the Sichuanese dish at a five-year high.
虽然联合国教科文组织、韩国人和各地专业的食客们都知道辣白菜是朝鲜的，但邓禄普认为中国很可能从本次有关发酵食品的争议中受益。经过纽约时报、英国卫报、路透社及其它国际媒体报道后，无数原本没有听说过泡菜的读者现在都知道泡菜。而谷歌趋势的数据显示，近期对川菜的搜索量也达到了五年来的新高。 6park.com

"Regardless
 of what anyone thinks about this claim, the Sichuanese have scored a 
huge PR victory," Dunlop said. "Pao cai is a wonderful Sichuanese 
tradition, but only in Sichuan. There are countless other wonderful 
pickled vegetables throughout China that the outside world knows nothing
 about."
“不管他人对这个争议怎么看，四川人在公共关系这一块胜利了。泡菜是四川省非常棒的传统，但只是在四川省。在中国乃至全世界都有无数其它种腌制的蔬菜无人知晓。”


Perhaps
 China can leave kimchi to the Korean experts and use this moment to 
introduce the world to its many other mouth-watering ways to "send the 
rice down".
或许，中国可以将朝鲜辣白菜留给韩国人，并利用这个机会向世界介绍它拥有的很多其它令人流口水的“下饭菜”。
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