在群里问的一个chassis structure问题，懒得翻回母语了，直接发吧lol 6park.com
My Celi although it is a yota, but cramped tiny engine bay quite headache for maintenance, a shame to yota's easy servicing fame. Esp. that darn heavy tranny, impossible for one man to handle, can't DIY replace clutch insitu... Always envy of FR cars have open front-end easy engine / tranny service, so decided made my tubular front-end has its forward-bottom bar a detachable part, then I could one man remove engine assembly fast, without jacking front-end up skyhigh.



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Quite proud of the convenience, but worried about strength integrity. As my understanding, longitudal engine / subframe usually mounted directly to the beams, just a (minor) bracing at forward-bottom position is goodenough. But transverse engine placement, the front engine mount arguably bearing heaviest load, and rests completely on that forward-bottom bar. 



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Thus am really worrying whether that detachable piece could hold. Or course would be goodenough for daily running, but as rallye heritage, I do want she can hold while violently jumping / dropping etc. lol. 🤣 6park.com
Tubulars are 1-3/4" 0.10"  thick 4130 quite strong, but small flange( cut from 4mm plates bought at watsadu... ) and total 10 * M8 stainless bolts... seems flimsy 😥 I did lil male / female mating for flanges, but structure just seems too weak.  6park.com
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Thoughts:
method1, weld flanges shut. But later servicing etc. would be mega headache. 6park.com
method2, weld additional tubular bracing. Not only quite some work, but hardly any space left available... 6park.com
Or if it could hold with lil more reinforcements? method3, all high strength 12.9 bolts with high torque.  6park.com
Of course best would be method4: DIY machining some solid proper QD tubular connector and weld on. But time is luxury maybe for later. 
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Didn't found 12.9 flange nuts nearby shops, so just generic bolts / nuts and DIY made some 3mm thick 304 washer. Lol since they're 12.9 had no distress torqueing em down to 37Nm. 




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👆 Above these're my conscious flow. What're your thoughts, could this might be hold steady for like, rallye jumps etc.? ( suppose my welding sound. Some ugly argon issue happened, but grind rewelded and double pass )
Anyway, easy removal / reinstall engine assembly like a FR, is agreeable no doubt😁 esp. Celica structure are lil more optimized for whole assembly teardown replacing, that rallye heritage lol 6park.com
好亲友回复我的：
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For comparison, a lot of 90's Honda's have a similar design, but there are only three engine mounts: rear of the engine that bolts to the front subframe, transmission to chassis, cambelt side to chassis. There are also torque mounts left and right at the front, but they are not load baring. Often people fit traction bars, which are not really needed, I normally remove the bars, but retain the sturdy cross-bar, to help with rigidity, see the next picture.

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我的回复
--------Wow million thanks! First time learning this quirky Honda style👍, now having a clearer picture front chassis loading, slight more confident to my situation

贴主:Riiken于2024_03_12 7:56:55编辑